
The invasion of Austin by mobile food vendors continues unabated. The most creative menu item I have seen (so far) is the spicy brisket crepe. While I'm not quite ready to tackle that one, it got me thinking about one of my favorite bar foods….
There is an ice house in north Austin that is fairly hard to find. For starters its on a road that exists in 5 different parts of the city, none of them connected and this one only 1/4 mile long. Its listed in the directory under "deer processing". Compared to the din of non-stop twitter marketing, this seems like a healthy and welcome ploy to keep customers from finding you. Customers sit under decades old vines that have overrun a chain-link fence carport. Cars pull up next to the tables, so this is one of those places where its much more interesting to have a 1963 Buick Riviera than a brand new Prius. The staff brings out buckets of beer on ice and everyone enjoys the Texas heat.
After a couple hours, a guy with a badly damaged eye will walk over to your table with a couple bags he dug out of his truck. He will ask, way too softly, if you want to buy some tamales. Spicy brisket tamales. The correct answer, and I always use the correct answer, is yes.

One thing I am very much cheating on with this recipe is the brisket. I have the advantage of living in a place where I can buy a whole brisket that has been fantastically smoked within a day of purchase. An unfair advantage, perhaps, but it would be silly not to take advantage of it.
This recipe makes far too many tamales. You can cut the recipe in half, but you'll notice that if you do, you'll have half a brisket. Not an entirely bad situation to be in, but be prepared. When you start cutting down the filling, you have to start thinking about using canned enchilada sauce. That's where I draw the line. So I end up making batches of masa paste until I am done. Since it takes all of 2 minutes to make the paste, and not everyone can make 60 tamales at once, it’s a reasonable way to go. The filling will freeze. I highly recommend you make the full 60 and share them with your friends.
Spicy Brisket Tamales
Corn husks
Filling:
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
4 dried Ancho chilies, stem and seeds removed, cut into small pieces
2 cloves garlic, very finely minced
1 can Chipotle Peppers in Adobo Sauce
2 Tbsp oil
1 onion
1 tsp cumin
2-3 lb smoked brisket, diced
1 can fire roasted tomatoes
1 Tbsp honey
Masa:
2 cups masa harina
2 cups warm water
6 Tbsp butter, melted
1 tsp baking powder
2 tsp salt
Directions
- Rinse the corn husks and keep them wet.
- In a small saucepan, bring the stock to a boil.
- Reduce heat, add the chili pepper, onion and garlic.
- Cook for 15 minutes, remove from heat
- In a blender, puree the chipotle peppers with the stock mixture.
- In a cast iron skillet, heat the oil and cook the onion and cumin until translucent, about 5 minutes.
- Add the beef and cook for 3 minutes.
- Add the pepper mixture, bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.
- Add the tomatoes and honey; cook gently for 10 minutes. Set aside.
- Mix the masa harina, water, butter, baking powder and salt into a thick paste.
- Spread the masa to near the edge of the husk. Make it about 1/4" thick.
- Put about 2 tablespoons in the middle of the paste.
- Roll the tamale up, and fold the end over by about 2"
- Steam the tamales in a covered pot with a rack for 60 minutes.